Method of hydrolyzing jojoba protein

ABSTRACT

Unhydrolyzed and hydrolyzed jojoba protein having high simmondsin concentration are provided. These jojoba proteins may be in the form of an aqueous dispersion containing a mixture of amino acids, peptides, and/or protein fractions derived from the extraction and hydrolysis of naturally occurring jojoba protein, or dried into a powder.

RELATED APPLICATION

This application is a division of Ser. No. 10/340,072, filed Jan. 10,2003, now U.S. Pat. No. 6,982,164.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

1. Field of the Invention

The present invention is broadly concerned with unhydrolyzed andhydrolyzed jojoba protein extracts having high concentrations ofsimmondsin and various other related glycosides and uses thereof,particularly in connection with cosmetic products such as shampoos,shampoo conditioners, hair styling gels, hair conditioners, hairreparatives, hair tonics, hair fixatives, hair mousses, bath and showergels, liquid soaps, moisturizing sprays, makeup, pressed powderformulations, lip products, bath additives, sanitizing wipes, handsanitizers, premoistened towelettes, skin lotions and creams, shavingcreams, and sunscreens. More particularly, it is concerned withhydrolyzed and unhydrolyzed jojoba proteins which are preferably in theform of a mixture of amino acids, peptides and/or protein fractionsderived from the extraction and, in the case of hydrolyzed protein, thehydrolysis of naturally occurring jojoba protein; such mixtures, whenused in cosmetic products provide enhanced properties.

2. Description of the Prior Art

Jojoba is a dioecious wind-pollinated shrub, reaching a height of 1–5meters and having a long life span (100–200 years). Jojoba is cultivatedmainly in Arizona, Northern Mexico, Argentina and Israel. Geneticvariability in morphology, anatomy and physiology within the species isvery large and enable selection of clones for high yield and otheragricultural attributes. Leaves are xerophytic with a thick cuticle,sunken stomata. They contain special tissue with a high concentration ofphenol compounds. Flowers are apetalous: the female ones are usuallysolitary, one per two nodes although flowers every node or in clustersare not rare. The male flowers are clustered. Flower buds form in theaxiles of leaves solely on the new vegetative growth occurring duringthe warm seasons under favorable temperatures and water regime. Newflower buds are dormant and will open only after a cool season withenough cold units for the fulfillment of their chilling requirements.Anthesis occurs in the spring when the soil and air temperature rise toabove 15° C. Severe water stress prevents opening of flowers. The jojobafruit is a capsule containing one to three dark brown seeds thatnormally range in their dry weight between 0.5–1.1 g and contains 44–56%wax. Fruits ripen during the spring and early summer and seeds fall tothe ground in late summer.

Indigenous Amerinds in the Sonora and Baja, Calif. used jojoba seed andoil for cooking, hair care, and for treatments of many medical problemssuch as poison ivy, sores, wounds, colds, cancer and kidney malfunction.The oil is extracted from jojoba seed by conventional screw pressingtechniques, leaving a residual defatted dry material which is high innative jojoba protein (typically on the order of 25–35% by weightprotein) and the glucoside simmondsin (typically in the range of 11–18%by weight).

Jojoba oil is a light yellow liquid at room temperature and is made upof straight-chain esters of mono-unsaturated long chain fatty acids andfatty alcohols and has an average total carbon chain length of 42carbons. The product may be isomerized, hydrogenated, sulfurized,chlorinated or transesterified, and has a wide range of industrial uses,mainly in cosmetics in which it is incorporated in formulations for skincare preparations such as lotions, moisturizers, massage oils, creams,hair care products, lipsticks, makeups and nail products. Otherpotential uses include pharmaceuticals and as extenders for plastics,printers inks, gear-oil additives and lubricants.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention is directed to new jojoba protein compositionswhich contain high levels of simmondsin, namely unhydrolyzed andhydrolyzed jojoba proteins and derivatives thereof, as well as uses ofsuch protein and simmondsin products in cosmetic formulations. Thepreferred jojoba protein and derivatives thereof in accordance with theinvention comprise a mixture of amino acids, peptides and/or proteinfractions derived from the extraction and optional hydrolysis ofnaturally occurring jojoba protein. Protein hydrolysis is preferablycarried out enzymatically, but if desired acid hydrolysis can also beemployed.

In more detail, the unhydrolyzed jojoba protein is typically in the formof a mixture having an amino acid, peptide and/or protein fragmentmolecular weight range of about 200–880,000. Methods of producingunhydrolyzed jojoba protein generally comprise forming an aqueousdispersion of defatted jojoba meal. The aqueous dispersion is thenheated to a temperature between about 60–90° C., more preferably betweenabout 70°–80° C., and most preferably to about 75° C. Heating thedispersion aids in extracting the protein from the jojoba meal. Once theextraction has been performed, the dispersion is filtered therebyforming a liquid permeate which comprises the unhydrolyzed jojobaprotein and simmondsin. The permeate may then be dried, preferably spraydried, into an unhydrolyzed jojoba protein powder containing simmondsin.

The unhydrolyzed jojoba protein permeate may optionally undergo ahydrolysis operation thereby producing hydrolyzed jojoba proteintypically in the form of a mixture having an amino acid, peptide and/orprotein fragment molecular weight range of from about 75–5,000 with anaverage molecular weight of from about 1,500–2,500. During hydrolyzationprocessing, it is often desirable to membrane filter the hydrolysisproducts in order to segregate the peptides and/or protein fragments toachieve different molecular weight profiles. In one such preferredmethod, a hydrolyzed jojoba protein product of relatively high molecularweight is provided, with a molecular weight range for the respectivepeptides and/or fragments therein of from about 1,000–5,000 and with anaverage molecular weight of from about 2,000–4,000. Similarly, a lowermolecular weight fraction (sometimes referred to as a jojoba amino acidfraction) is produced wherein the respective amino acids and peptidesexhibit a molecular weight range of from about 75–1,000, with an averagemolecular weight of from about 100–300.

Unhydrolyzed and hydrolyzed jojoba protein and derivatives thereof canbe produced as a dry powder or in the form of an aqueous dispersion. Thedry unhydrolyzed jojoba protein powder comprises from about 10–30% byweight protein or protein derivatives, more preferably from about 15–20%by weight, and the dry hydrolyzed jojoba protein powder comprises fromabout 18–35% by weight protein or protein derivatives, more preferablyfrom about 25–30% by weight. The dry hydrolyzed jojoba amino acid powdercomprises from about 3–15% by weight amino acid, preferably from about5–10% by weight.

As used herein, “derivatives” of hydrolyzed jojoba protein refers tochanges in the structure of the individual amino acids, peptides and/orprotein fragments produced by amino acid addition, deletion,replacement, substitution and/or modifications; mutants produced byrecombinant and/or DNA shuffling; quaternized species; and all otherchemically synthesized/modified forms of the individual amino acids,peptides and/or protein fragments which retain at least in part someactivity of the initial hydrolyzed amino acids, peptides and/or proteinfragments. One particularly preferred class of unhydrolyzed andhydrolyzed jojoba protein derivatives is the lipid derivatives,especially those synthesized using C12–C22 fatty acids.

The term “hydrolyzed jojoba protein” is intended to embrace and covernot only the amino acids, peptides and/or protein fractions derived fromthe hydrolysis of naturally occurring jojoba protein but also all“derivatives” as herein defined. Furthermore, it is understood that theterm “hydrolyzed jojoba protein” refers to a mixture of amino acids,peptides and/or protein fractions derived from the hydrolysis ofnaturally occurring jojoba protein, rather than a single specificprotein molecule.

Defatted jojoba meal includes a number of related glycosides which actas natural appetite suppressants. The principal glycoside is simmondsin[2-(cyanomethylene)-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethoxy-cyclohexyl beta-D glucoside]which may comprise up to about 7% by weight of defatted jojoba meal. Thedry powder of unhydrolyzed jojoba protein extracts of the presentinvention comprise significant amounts of simmondsin, preferably fromabout 11–18% by weight, and more preferably from about 12–15% by weight.In aqueous dispersions of the unhydrolyzed and hydrolyzed jojoba proteinproducts, the simmondsin is included in the solid phase of thedispersion. As noted above, it is also possible to segregate thehydrolyzed jojoba peptides and/or protein fragments into a proteinproduct of relatively high molecular weight and a lower molecular weightamino acid fraction. The jojoba amino acid fraction preferably comprisesfrom about 1–3% by weight simmondsin (on a dry basis), while thehydrolyzed jojoba protein product of relatively high molecular weightcomprises from about 5–15% by weight simmondsin (on a dry basis).

Simmondsin and various related glycosides found in jojoba meal have thegeneral formula:

The specific formulas for simmondsin and several related glycosides aregiven in Table 1, wherein the trans-ferulic acid moiety (TFA) has thegeneral formula:

TABLE 1

Glucoside R₁ R₂ R₃ R₄ Simmondsin OCH₃ OCH₃ H OH 4-demethylsimmondsin OHOCH₃ H OH didemethylsimmondsin OH OH H OH simmondsin 2′-trans-ferulateOCH₃ OCH₃ TFA OH simmondsin 4′-trans-ferulate OCH₃ OCH₃ OH TFA5-demethylsimmondsin 2′-trans- OCH₃ OH TFA OH ferulate4-demethylsimmondsin 2′-trans- OH OCH₃ TFA OH ferulate

The ferulate simmondsin derivatives comprise about 9–16% by weight ofthe unhydrolyzed jojoba protein powder.

As used herein, the term “simmondsin” is intended to embrace not onlythe actual simmondsin glucoside molecule described above, but alsogenerally, those related glycosides found in jojoba meal.

The jojoba products of the invention can be used to good effect in avariety of cosmetic formulations which include at least one ingredientselected from the group consisting of humectants, emollients,conditioners, thickeners, moisturizing agents, opacifiers, pearl agents,buffering agents, slip agents, feel agents, anti-static agents,acidifiers, preservatives, film formers, plasticizers, setting agentsand suspending agents (usually, each of the foregoing ingredients whenused is present at a level of from about 0.05–10% by weight). An amountof jojoba protein or derivative thereof is incorporated into this typeof cosmetic formulation, usually at a level of from about 1–10% byweight, more preferably from about 3–8% by weight. As noted above, thejojoba protein (hydrolyzed or unhydrolyzed) will include an amount ofsimmondsin which has been carried through the extraction process.Preferably, the cosmetic formulations will comprise from about 0.05–2%by weight simmondsin, more preferably from about 0.5–1.5% by weight.Inasmuch as the preferred jojoba protein products are in the form ofliquid dispersions, it is a simple matter to add the jojoba to thecosmetic formulations during preparation thereof. Generally, theformulation of the invention comprise from about 10–95% by weight water,more preferably from about 20–75% by weight water.

Among the cosmetic products which can benefit from incorporation of thejojoba products of the invention are those selected from the groupconsisting of shampoos, shampoo conditioners, hair styling gels, hairconditioners, hair reparatives, hair tonics, hair fixatives, hairmousses, bath and shower gels, liquid soaps, moisturizing sprays,makeup, pressed powder formulations, lip products, bath additives,sanitizing wipes, hand sanitizers, premoistened towelettes, skin lotionsand creams, shaving creams, and sunscreens. In products of these types,the shampoos and shampoo conditioners further comprise at least about 6%by weight detergent; the hair styling gels further comprise agel-forming polymer system; the hair conditioners further comprise atleast about 0.3% by weight cationic hair conditioner; the hairreparatives further comprise at least about 2% by weight cationic hairconditioner; the bath and shower gels further comprise at least about25% by weight surfactant; the skin lotions and creams further compriseat least about 2% by weight of a cream former; the sunscreen furthercomprising a sunblocking agent; and the shaving creams furthercomprising at least about 10% by weight detergent and having a basic pH.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

FIG. 1 is a schematic flow diagram illustrating the steps involved inthe preferred process for the production of hydrolyzed jojoba protein.

FIG. 2 is a typical HPLC simmondsin chromatogram from a jojoba mealextract.

FIG. 3 is a schematic flow diagram illustrating the steps involved inthe preferred process for the production of unhydrolyzed jojoba protein.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENT

The following examples set forth preferred procedures for the productionof unhydrolyzed and hydrolyzed jojoba protein and simmondsin, and usethereof in cosmetic products. It is to be understood, however, thatthese examples are provided by way of illustration and nothing thereinshould be taken as a limitation upon the overall scope of the invention.

EXAMPLE 1

This example describes a preferred procedure for the preparation ofunhydrolyzed jojoba protein using defatted jojoba meal as a startingmaterial. The meal is obtained from jojoba which has been conventionallypress-treated to remove the jojoba oil, leaving the defatted meal. Themeal has a protein content of 30.2% by weight, 38.3% by weight dietaryfiber, 1.7% by weight residual oil, ash of 4.3% by weight, moisture of5.6% by weight, with the remainder being insolubles. Defatted jojobameal also comprises 11–18% by weight simmondsin and simmondsin relatedglycosides. The following table sets forth the amino acid profile of theprotein fraction of the meal.

TABLE 2 Ingredient Amino Acid Profile Aspartic Acid 2.82% Threonine1.41% Serine 1.53% Glutamic Acid 3.36% Proline 1.44% Glycine 2.45%Alanine 1.19% Cystine 0.80% Valine 1.54% Methionine 0.35% Isoleucine1.03% Leucine 2.02% Tyrosine 1.07% Phenylalanine 1.23% Histidine 0.61%Lysine 1.45% Arginine 1.95% Tryptophan 0.32%

FIG. 3 schematically illustrates a preferred method of extractingunhydrolyzed jojoba protein. First, 1000 lbs. of defatted jojoba meal ismixed with 750 gallons of water for 45 minutes at room temperature (step2). The resulting dispersion is heated to 165° F. (74° C.) and filtered(step 4). The permeate product is spray dried into a light tan coloredpowder (step 6). The resulting unhydrolyzed jojoba protein andsimmondsin product 8 is analyzed. Product 8 has a moisture content of4.5% by weight, a protein content of 15–20% by weight, and a totalsimmondsin content of 12–18% by weight. The molecular weight range forthe protein is 200–880,000.

FIG. 2 is an HPLC simmondsin chromatogram from the jojoba meal extractillustrating the various simmondsins which are present in the defattedjojoba meal.

The process described above may be altered in so that the unhydrolyzedjojoba protein contained within the permeate resulting from step 4 maybe sent to an enzyme treatment process (step 12) where the jojobaproteins are hydrolyzed. Optionally, the pH of the permeate is adjustedprior to enzyme treatment (step 9). A preferred procedure for thepreparation of hydrolyzed jojoba protein is described in Example 2below.

EXAMPLE 2

This example describes a preferred procedure for the preparation ofhydrolyzed jojoba protein, using defatted jojoba meal as a startingmaterial. Defatted jojoba meal as described in Example 1 was used inthis example.

The hydrolysis method is schematically illustrated in FIG. 1, and wascarried out as follows. First, 750 gallons of soft water was heated to140° F. and placed in a reaction tank. 1,000 pounds of theabove-described jojoba oil meal was added to the reaction tank withagitation to completely disperse the meal. At this point, 22 pounds of50% NaOH solution was added to the reaction tank for 1 hour tosolubilize the proteins and create the alkaline dispersion 10 of FIG. 1.

In the next step, the protein slurry was treated with 15 pounds ofprotease enzyme (step 12), using a commercially available enzyme(Alcalase, Novo) and hydrolyzed for 2 hours with agitation. During thishydrolysis, the pH was maintained between 7.5–8.0 using 50% NaOH. Asecond dose of the Alcalase protease enzyme (15 pounds) was then addedto the slurry followed by agitation for 2 hours. During this period,there was no pH adjustment.

In the next step 14, the pH of the slurry was adjusted to 6.5 usinglactic acid, whereupon a second protease treatment (step 16) was carriedout. This treatment included addition of 10 pounds of a second proteaseenzyme (Flavorzyme, Novo) followed by agitation for 4 hours. Thereupon,3 pounds of Dual Protease Enzyme (Enzyme Development Corp.) wasdispersed in 1 gallon of tap water and added to the slurry followed bythe addition of 10 pounds of Neutrase (Novo). The slurry was thenagitated for an additional 2 hours to continue the hydrolysis process.

In step 18, lactic acid was added to the slurry to lower the pH to 4.5,followed by the addition of 8 pounds sodium metabisulfite with agitationfor 10 minutes. Next, in step 20, the slurry was heated to 160° F. todeactivate all protease enzymes.

The slurry containing hydrolyzed jojoba proteins was then processed in arotary vacuum filter (step 22) to remove insolubles, and the filtratewas clarified by passage through a packed-house filter unit (step 24).

The clarified filtrate from step 24 was then fed to a nanofiltrationmembrane system, in order to generate a permeate and a retentate havingdifferent molecular weight profiles (step 26) after the retentatereached about 31% by weight solids using a refractometer. The membranesystem was selected so that the lower molecular weight permeate proteinswere generally below a molecular weight of 1,000, whereas the retentateproteins had a molecular weight of above about 1,000.

The retentate fraction was first treated by the addition ofpreservatives (step 28), namely 1% by weight Germaben II and 0.3% byweight Dowicil 200. The retentate was then chilled to 34–35° F. andallowed to stand for 16–24 hours (step 30). The chilled retentate wasthen cold-filtered in a packed-house filter unit to remove haziness(step 32), and additional preservatives were added (15% extra GermabenII and Dowicil 200).

The resulting retentate was aged 1–2 weeks (step 34) filtered (step 36)and packed in aqueous liquid form in 5-gallon jugs or 55-gallon drums(step 38) as hydrolyzed jojoba protein 39. This liquid contained about10% by weight protein.

The permeate fraction was conventionally evaporated (step 40) to achievea solids content of about 34% by weight, using a refractometer.Preservatives were then added (1% Germaben II and 0.3% Dowicil 200)followed by mixing for 1 hour (step 42). The retentate was thensubjected to the same aging, filtration and packaging steps 34, 36 and38 as the retentate, to produce aqueous liquid jojoba amino acid product44. This liquid product contained about 4.5% by weight protein.

A molecular weight analysis of the hydrolyzed jojoba protein and aminoacid products revealed that the higher molecular weight protein productwas a mixture of peptides and/or protein fragments with a range ofmolecular weights of from about 1,000–5,000 and an average molecularweight of 3,500; the amino acid product was a mixture of amino acids andpeptides with a range of molecular weights of from about 75–1,000, andaverage molecular weight of 200. In particular, the jojoba amino acidproduct was analyzed to contain (wb) 0.28% aspartic acid, 0.13%threonine, 0.15% serine, 0.38% glutamic acid, 0.09% proline, 0.17%glycine, 0.17% alanine, 0.03% cysteine, 0.14% valine, 0.04% methionine,0.09% isoleucine, 0.17% leucine, <0.01% tyrosine, 0.13% phenylalanine,0.02% histidine, 0.08% lysine, 0.11% arginine, and <0.01% tryptophan.

It will be appreciated that the two products developed using thisprocess comprise peptides and/or protein fragments derived fromnaturally occurring jojoba protein, and that the reference to“hydrolyzed jojoba protein” and “jojoba amino acid” is a convenience,merely referring to the fact that the respective mixtures have differentmolecular weight profiles. In both cases, however, the products are“hydrolyzed jojoba protein” and this term is used herein to refer toboth of these products and for that matter any product containing aminoacids, peptides and/or protein fragments derived from naturallyoccurring jojoba protein via hydrolysis.

EXAMPLE 3

In this example, a jojoba amino acid product is produced by acidhydrolysis of jojoba meal. In the process, 450 gallons of warm (160° F.)water is transferred to a homomixer tank, followed by the addition of 2gallons of concentrated HCl (36%). The mixture is stirred and 950 poundsof jojoba meal is added, with continued stirring for 30 minutes. Theacidified slurry is then transferred to a glass-lined reactor and 448gallons of concentrated HCl (36%) is added to the reactor. Thetemperature of the mixture within the reactor is raised to 212–220° F.using a heat exchanger, followed by mixing for 24 hours. At the end ofthe 24 hour mixing period, the hydrolyzate is cooled to 120–140° F., and50% NaOH solution is added to adjust the pH to 6.0–7.0. The neutralizedhydrolyzate is then clarified using a rotary vacuum filter to removesolid particulates, and the clarified hydrolyzate is concentrated to thedesired solids level (20–30%) in an evaporator.

Preservatives (1% Germaben and 0.3% Dowicil 200) are added. The productis then chilled at 34–35° F. for 16–24 hours. After chilling, theproduct is filtered using a packed-house filter unit to remove haziness.The product is then aged for 1–2 weeks, and a final filtration iscarried out using a packed-house filter unit. The product is thenpackaged in suitable containers such as 5 gallon jugs or 55 gallondrums.

EXAMPLE 4

In this example, quaternized derivatives of hydrolyzed jojoba protein orjojoba amino acid are prepared. In the first step, 100 parts of thejojoba product (either hydrolyzed jojoba protein or hydrolyzed jojobaamino acid) are added to a reaction tank. The pH of the mixture isadjusted to 9.1–9.3 using 50% NaOH.

Seventeen parts by weight of3-chloro-2-hydroxypropyl-N,N,N-dimethyldo-decylammonium chloride (Quab342, 40% active) and 6 parts by weight of tap water are mixed in aseparate container, followed by 1.7 parts by weight of 50% NaOH withagitation. The reaction is allowed to proceed for 10 minutes, giving afinal pH typically between 10–11 (a small amount of additional 50% NaOHwas added if the pH fell below 10). Alternatives to the Quab 342 productare 3-chloro-2-hydroxypropyl-N,N,N-dimethyloctadecylammonium chloride(Quab 426) or 3-chloro-2-hydroxypropyl-N,N,N-trimethylammonium chloride(Quat 188) to produce other derivatives. The solution in the separatecontainer is then added to the pH-adjusted jojoba mixture, followed byagitation for 16–24 hours. The pH of the solution is then adjusted4.4–4.6 using lactic acid (88%) solution. The product is then filteredusing a packed-house filter unit to remove particulates, followed bypackaging.

Chemically, the finished product is laurdimonium hydroxypropylhydrolyzed jojoba protein (or laurdimonium hydroxypropyl jojoba aminoacid). If Quab 426 is used, the product is steardimonium hydroxypropylhydrolyzed jojoba protein (or steardimonium hydroxypropyl jojoba aminoacid). If Quat 188 is used, the product is called hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed jojoba protein (or hydroxypropyl trimonium jojobaamino acid).

EXAMPLE 5

In this example, defatted jojoba meal comprising 6.10% by weightsimmondsin (dry basis) is hydrolyzed into jojoba protein products 39 and44 as described in Example 1. Products 39 and 44 undergo HPLC analysisto determine simmondsin content. Product 39 (hydrolyzed jojoba protein)is found to comprise 9.60% by weight simmondsin (dry basis) and product44 (hydrolyzed jojoba amino acid) is found to comprise 1.53% simmondsin(dry basis).

It is important to note that the weight percentages expressed above arecalculated on a dry basis. That is, products 39 and 44 are aqueousdispersions having a solid phase comprising hydrolyzed jojoba peptidesand/or amino acid fragments. The weight percentage of simmondsin in theaqueous dispersion is determined by HPLC analysis. The weight percentageof simmondsin on a dry basis is back calculated taking into account themoisture content of the dispersion. The weight percentage on a dry basisrepresents the amount of simmondsin contained within the solids phase ofthe respective aqueous dispersion.

EXAMPLE 6

The following products were produced using the unhydrolyzed andhydrolyzed jojoba protein products described in Examples 1 and 2.

Ultra Shampoo

The following ingredients were used to prepare the shampoo.

TABLE 3 Phase Trade Name INCI Name Function Amount A Distilled WaterDistilled Water Aqua Adjust A Merquat 550 Polyquaternium-7 Film Former0.05 A Stepanol WAC Sodium Lauryl Sulfate Cleansing 10.00 A StepanolSodium Laureth Cleansing 10.00 CS-230 Sulfate A Amphosol CACocamidopropyl Foam Booster 3.00 Betain B Mackamide C Cocamide DEA FoamBooster 1.00 B Jojoba Protein Unhydrolyzed Jojoba Reparative/ 1.00Powder Protein Substantivity B Chamomile Chamomile Extract Soothing 0.07Extract B Calendula Calendula Extract Healing 0.05 Extract CPreservative QS Antibacterial QS C Fragrance QS Fragrance QS

Distilled water was placed in a primary tank and the remainingingredients of Phase A were added, followed by those of Phases B and C,with mixing. pH was adjusted to 5.5–6.5 using 25% citric acid, andviscosity was adjusted with 10% NaCl solution.

Gentle Conditioning Agent

The following ingredients were used to prepare the conditioning agent.

TABLE 4 Phase Trade Name INCI Name Function Amount A Distilled WaterDistilled Water Aqua QS A Aqua Pro II ™ QWt HydroxypropyltrimoniumConditioning 2.00 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein A Lipowax G Stearyl AlcoholEmulsifier 3.50 A Lipocol C Cetyl Alcohol (Lipo) Emulsifier 3.00 ALipocol C-20 Ceatech-20 Emulsifier 2.50 A Beeswax White BeeswaxEmulsifier 0.25 A Dimethicone Dow Corning 200 Fluid Feel 1.00 AEmulsifying Wax Stearyl Alcohol/Ceteareth-20 Emulsifier 1.50 B JojobaProtein Powder Unhydrolyzed Jojoba Protein Reparative 1.00 B ChamomileExtract Chamomile Extract Soothing 0.05 B Aloe Vera Extract Aloe VeraExtract Healing 0.08 B Calendula Extract Calendula Extract Healing 0.03B Licorice Extract Licorice Extract Astringent 0.08 C Preservative QSAntibacterial QS C Fragrance QS Fragrance QS

Distilled water added to a primary tank followed by the ingredients ofPhase A in the order listed, and the mixture was heated to 75° C. Themixture was then cooled to 35° C., and the Phase B and C ingredientswere added. The pH was adjusted to 3.0 with 25% citric acid, andfragrance and preservative were added.

Moisturizing Body Wash

The following ingredients were used to prepare the body wash.

TABLE 5 Phase Trade Name INCI Name Function Amount A Distilled WaterDistilled Water Aqua Adjust A Kessco EGMS 70 Glycol Stearate Emulsifier1.50 A Versene NA2 Disodium EDTA Chelation 0.05 A Stepanol CS-230 SodiumLaureth Cleaning 20.00 Sulfate A Amphosol CA Cocamidopropyl Foam 5.00Betaine Booster B Macamide C Cocamide Foam 1.00 DEA Booster B JojobaProtein Unhydrolyzed Reparative/ 2.00 Powder Jojoba Protein MoisturizerB Chamomile Extract Chamomile Extract Soothing 0.07 (Active Organic) BAloe Vera Extract Aloe Vera Extract Healing 0.05 (Active Organic) BCalendula Extract Calendula Extract Healing 0.05 B Glycerox HEPeg-7Glyceryl Humectant 0.50 Cocoate B Aqua Pro II ™ Wheat Germ OilAnti-oxidant .50 WGO C Preservative QS Antibacterial QS C Fragrance QSFragrance QS

The product was prepared by placing an amount of distilled water in aprimary tank and heating the water to 75° C., whereupon the remainingingredients of Phase A were added with mixing. The mixture was thencooled to 45° C. and the ingredients of Phases B and C were added withadequate mixing. The pH of the mixture was then adjusted to 5.5–6.5using 25% citric acid, and the viscosity was adjusted using a 10% NaClsolution.

Moisturizing Hand Cream

The following ingredients were used to prepare the hand cream.

TABLE 6 Phase Trade Name INCI Name Function Amount A Distilled WaterDistilled Water Aqua QS A Carbopol 940 Carbomer Thickener 0.15 (2%solution) A Propylene Glycol Propylene Glycol Humectant 1.0  ACompletech Milk Protein Skin Feel 0.50 MBAC-DS B Stepan DGS SE TriplePress Emulsifier 3.00 Stearic Acid B Lipocol C Cetyl Alcohol Emulsifier2.00 B Lipo GMS-450 Glyceryl Stearate Emulsifier 1.75 B Shea Butter SheaButter Emollient 0.16 B Lipo IPP Isopropyl Palmitate Emollient 1.00 BLipo IPM Isopropyl Myristate Emollient 1.00 B Crystisik NF 90 MineralOil Emollient 0.50 C Skin-Flow C ™ Wheat Starch Silky Feel 2.00 ModifiedD Japanese Green Green Tea Extract Astringent 0.05 Tea Extract DGoldenrod Goldenrod Extract Astringent 0.05 Extract D Aloe Vera AloeVera Healing 0.05 D Yucca Yucca Extract Stimulant 0.03 Extract E JojobaProtein Unhydrolyzed Anti-Wrinkle/ 1.00 Powder Jojoba ProteinMoisturizer E Jojoba Amino Jojoba Amino Acid Moisturizer 1.00 Acid EPreservative QS Antibacterial QS

The distilled water and other ingredients of Phase A were placed in aprimary tank and heated to 75° C. The ingredients of Phase B were placedin a secondary tank and also heated to 75° C. The Phase B ingredientswere added to the Phase A ingredients at 75° C. with good agitation. Themixture was then allowed to cool and at 50–55° C. the ingredient ofPhase C was added, making sure that there were no lumps or powderremaining in the tank. The ingredients of Phase D were then added in theorder listed. The mixture was then allowed to cool to 35° C., whereuponthe unhydrolyzed jojoba protein, jojoba amino acid product andpreservative were added.

Anti-Wrinkle Cream

The following ingredients were used to prepare the anti-wrinkle cream.

TABLE 7 Phase Trade Name INCI Name Function Amount A Distilled WaterDistilled Water Aqua QS A Carbopol 940 Carbomer Thickener 0.20 AGlycerin Glycerin Humectant 1.0  A Completech MBAC-DS Milk Protein SkinFeel 0.50 B Stepan DGS SE Triple Press Stearic Acid Emulsifier 3.00 BLipocol C Cetyl Alcohol Emulsifier 2.00 B Lipo GMS-450 Glyceryl StearateEmulsifier 1.75 B Promulgen D Cetearyl Alcohol and Emulsifier 1.00Ceteareth-20 B Coco Butter Coco Butter Emollient 0.50 B Lipo IPPIsopropyl Palmitate Emollient 1.50 B Lipo IPM Isopropyl MyristateEmollient 1.50 B Crystosol NF 90 Mineral Oil Emollient 0.50 CSkin-Flow-C ™ Wheat Starch Modified Silky Feel 1.00 D Jojoba ProteinPowder Unhydrolyzed Jojoba Protein Anti-Wrinkle 2.00 D Jojoba Amino AcidJojoba Amino Acid Anti-Wrinkle 1.50 E Preservative QS Antibacterial QS

The distilled water was added to a primary tank followed by theingredients of Phase A, with heating to 75° C. The Phase B ingredientswere added in order to a secondary tank and heated to 75° C. Phase B wasadded to Phase A at 75° C. with good agitation with continued mixing andcooling to 50–55° C. At 50–55° C., the Skin-Flow-C product was added,making sure there were no lumps or powder remaining. When thetemperature reached 35° C., the unhydrolyzed jojoba protein and jojobaamino acid were added, followed by the preservative.

Face Mask

The following ingredients were used to prepare the face mask.

TABLE 8 Phase Trade Name INCI Name Function Amount A Aqua DistilledWater QS QS A Versene NA Disodium EDTA Chelation 0.10 A Propylene GlycolPropylene Glycol Humectant 4.00 A Stepanol CS-230 Sodium LaurethCleaning 2.0  Sulfate A Triethanolamine Triethanolamine pH Adjust 1.00(99%) (99%) B Sunflower Oil Sunflower Oil Emollient 1.50 B Almond OilAlmond Oil Emollient 0.50 B Jojoba Oil Jojoba Oil Emollient 2.00 B SheaButter Shea Butter Emollient 1.00 B Lipocol S Stearic Acid Emulsifier4.50 B Lipocol GMS-450 Glyceryl Stearate Emulsifier 2.50 C Carbopol 940Carbomer Thickener 0.80 D Yellow #6 FD&C Yellow #6 Colorifier 0.01 DBentonite 670 Bentonite Firming 9.00 D Kaoline Kaoline Firming 7.00Colloidal NF E Jojoba Protein Unhdrolyzed Jojoba Anti-Wrinkle 1.00Powder Protein E Jojoba Amino Acid Jojoba Amino Acid Anti-Wrinkle 1.00 EPreservative QS Antibacterial QS

Phase C was pre-mixed with 50% of the water from Phase A and when all ofPhase C had dissolved, the solution was heated to 75° C., and theremaining Phases A, B and D were added. The mixture was cooled to 35°C., whereupon the Phase E ingredients were added.

Hair Shampoo

The following ingredients were used to prepare the shampoo.

TABLE 9 Phase Trade Name INCI Name Function Amount A Distilled WaterDistilled Water Aqua Adjust A Versene NA2 Disodium EDTA Chelation 0.05 AStepanol CS-230 Sodium Laureth Sulfate Cleaning 20.00 A Amphosol CACocamidopropyl Betaine Foam 3.00 Booster B Macamide C Cocamide DEA Foam1.00 Booster B Jojoba Protein Hydrolyzed Jojoba Protein Reparative/ 2.00Moisturizer B Chamomile Extract (Active Chamomile Extract Soothing 0.07Organic) B Aloe Vera Extract (Active Aloe Vera Extract Healing 0.05Organic) B Calendula Extract Calendula Extract Healing 0.05 CPreservative QS Antibacterial QS C Fragrance QS Fragrance QS

Distilled water was placed in a primary tank and the remainingingredients of Phase A were added, followed by those of Phases B and C,with mixing. pH was adjusted using 25% citric acid as required, andviscosity was adjusted with 10% NaCl solution.

Hand Lotion

The following ingredients were used to prepare the hand lotion.

TABLE 10 Phase Trade Name INCI Name Function Amount A Distilled WaterDistilled Water Aqua Adjust A Glycerin Glycerin Humectant 1.0  ACarbopol 940 (2% Carbomer Thickener 0.15 solution) B Triple PressStearic Stepan DGS SE Emulsifier 2.00 Acid B Lipocol C Cetyl AlcoholEmulsifier 1.50 B Lipo GMS-450 Glyceryl Sterate Emolliency 1.50 B SheaButter Shea Butter Emollient 0.05 B Lipo IPP Isopropyl MyristateEmollient 0.80 B Lipo IPM Isopropyl Palmitate Emollient 0.80 B MineralOil Crystosol NF 90 Emollient 0.50 C Skin-Flow C ™ Wheat Starch SilkyFeel 3.00 Modified D Japanese Green Tea Green Tea Extract Astringent0.05 Extract (Active Organic) D Goldenrod Extract Goldenrod ExtractAstringent 0.05 (Active Organic) D Aloe Vera Aloe Vera Healing 0.05(Active Organic) D Yucca Extract Yucca Extract Stimulant 0.03 (ActiveOrganic) E Jojoba Amino Acid Jojoba Moisturizer/ 2.00 Amino AcidAnti-Wrinkle E Preservative QS Antibacterial QS

The distilled water was placed in a mixing tank along with theglycerine, and the mixture was heated to 75° C. The ingredients of PhaseB were placed in a secondary tank and also heated to 75° C. Phase B wasthen added to Phase A at 75° C. and good agitation. The mixture was thenallowed to cool to 65° C. and the ingredient of Phase C was added,making sure that there were no lumps or powder remaining on the side ofthe tank. The ingredients of Phase D were added in the listed order. Themixture was then cooled to 35° C. and the jojoba amino acid product 44was added along with preservative. PH is adjusted with 99%triethanolamine as required.

Moisturizing Hand Cream

The following ingredients were used to prepare the hand cream.

TABLE 11 Phase Trade Name INCI Name Function Amount A Distilled WaterDistilled Water Aqua QS A Propylene Glycol Propylene Glycol Humectant1.0  A Completech Milk Protein Skin Feel 0.50 MBAC-DS A Carbomer 940 (2%Carbomer Thickener 0.50 solution) B Stepan DGS SE Triple Press StearicEmulsifier 3.00 Acid B Lipocol C Cetyl Alcohol Emulsifier 2.00 B LipoGMS-450 Glyceryl Stearate Emulsifier 1.75 B Shea Butter Shea ButterEmollient 0.16 B Lipo IPP Isopropyl Myristate Emollient 1.00 B Lipo IPMIsopropyl Palmitate Emollient 1.00 B Crystosol NF 90 Mineral OilEmollient 0.50 C Skin-Flow C ™ Wheat Starch Modified Silky Feel 6.64 DJapanese Green Tea Green Tea Extract Astringent 0.05 Extract (ActiveOrganic) D Goldenrod Extract Goldenrod Extract Astringent 0.05 (ActiveOrganic) D Aloe Vera Aloe Vera Healing 0.05 (Active Organic) D YuccaExtract Yucca Extract Stimulant 0.03 (Active Organic) E Jojoba AminoAcid Jojoba Anti-Wrinkle/ 1.00 Amino Acid Moisturizer E Preservative QSAntibacterial QS E Jojoba Protein Hydrolyzed JojobaReparative/substantivity 1.50 Protein

The distilled water and other ingredients of Phase A were placed in aprimary tank and heated to 75° C. The ingredients of Phase B were placedin a secondary tank and also heated to 75° C. The Phase B ingredientswere added to the Phase A ingredients at 75° C. with good agitation. Themixture was then allowed to cool and at 50–55° C. the ingredient ofPhase C was added, making sure that there were no lumps or powderremaining in the tank. The ingredients of Phase D were then added in theorder listed. The mixture was then allowed to cool to 35° C., whereuponthe jojoba amino acid product and preservative were added. pH wasadjusted with 99% triethanolamine as required.

Moisturizing Foot Cream

The following ingredients were used to prepare the foot cream.

TABLE 12 Phase Trade Name INCI Name Function Amount A Distilled WaterDistilled Water Aqua QS A Glycerin USP Glycerin Humectant 0.5 A TEA 99%Triethanolamine pH adjuster QS A Milk Protein Milk Glyceride Filmforming 0.50 A Cosmogel-40 Wheat Starch Thickener 1.0 B Lipocol SStearic Acid Emulsifier 3.00 B Lipocol C Cetyl Alcohol Emulsifier 2.00 BLipo GMS-450 Glyceryl Stearate Emulsifier 1.75 B Aqua Pro II ™ WheatGerm Oil Anti-Oxidant 0.50 WGO B Cocobutter Cocobutter Emollient .20 BLipo IPM Isopropyl Myristate Emollient .50 B Lipo IPP IsopropylPalmitate Emollient .50 C Skin-Flow C ™ Modified Wheat Skin Feel 2.00Starch D Calendula Extract Calendula Extract Healing 0.05 D ChamomileExtract Chamomile Extract Astringent 0.05 D Aloe Vera Extract Aloe VeraExtract Healing 0.05 D Jojoba Protein Hydrolyzed Jojoba Moisturizer 2.00Protein D Jojoba Amino Acid Jojoba Moisturizer 1.00 Amino Acid D MenthylCrystal Menthyl Crystal Cooling 0.20 D Peppermint Oil Peppermint OilRefresher 1.00 D Preservative Preservative QS QS E Yellow #5 FD&C Yellow#5 QS QS E Blue #1 FD&C Blue #1 QS QS

Distilled water was metered into a primary tank, followed by mixing inCosmogel-40 with good agitation at 40° C. When the Cosmogel-40 was insolution, the remaining Phase A ingredients were added with heating to75° C. All of the ingredients in Phase B were weighed in another tankand heated to 75° C. Phase B was then added to Phase A with goodagitation, and when the temperature reached 50–55° C., the Skin-Flow-Cwheat starch product was added, making sure there were no lumps orpowder remaining on the side of the tank. The Phase B ingredients werethen added in the listed order, followed by color addition and pHadjustment to 5.5–6.5.

Moisturizing Foundation

The following ingredients were used to prepare the foundation.

TABLE 13 Phase Trade Name INCI Name Function Amount A Deionized WaterDistilled Water Aqua QS A TEA Triethanolamine Humectant 0.5 A PropyleneGlycol Propylene Glycol Humectant QS A Carbomer-940 Carbomer Viscosity0.20 A Veegum Magnesium Viscosity 0.30 Aluminum Silicate B Steric AcidTriple Press Stearic Emulsifier 1.00 Acid B Glucamate SSE-20 PEG-20Dimethyl Conditioning 1.00 Glucose Sesqusterate B Ritacol 1000Sterate-20 Emulsifier 0.80 B Lipocol C Cetyl Alcohol Emulsifier 0.50 BLipocol SC-20 Ceteth-20 Emulsifier 0.50 B Glucate SS Isopropyl MyristateEmollient .50 B Orgasol 2002 Ex Nylon-12 Biner 3.50 C Isopar-G C10–11Isoparaffin Solvent 0.20 D Cab-O-Sil Silica Dimethyl Bulking 1.00Siliylate D Dow Corning 244 Cyclomethicone Feel 15.00 E Eusolex T-200Titanium Dioxide UV 2.00 Protection E Iron Oxide Yellow Iron OxideYellow Color 0.40 E Iron Oxide Black Iron Oxide Black Color 0.40 E IronOxide Red Iron Oxide Red Color 0.30 F Tween-20 Polysorbate-20 Surfactant1.00 F Jojoba Protein Hydrolyzed Jojoba Anti-Wrinkle 1.00 Protein FJojoba Amino Acid Jojoba Anti-Wrinkle 2.00 Amino Acid G Skin Flow-C ™Modified Wheat Silky Feel 2.00 Starch H Preservative QS Antibacterial QSI Fragrance QS Fragrance QS

The ingredients of Phase A were heated to 75° C., and the ingredients ofPhase E were passed through a colloid mill with some propylene glycoland recirculation until the pigments were evenly dispersed. The colloidmill was rinsed with the Phase C ingredient and mixed using a lightninmixer with heating to 75° C. Phase B components were premixed and heatedto 75° C., and added to the main batch. The Phase G ingredient was thensprinkled into the main batch premix Phase D with heating to 65° C. At40° C., the ingredients of Phase F were added to the main batch togetherwith preservative and fragrance.

Moisturizing Baby Cream

The following ingredients were used to prepare the baby cream.

TABLE 14 Phase Trade Name INCI Name Function Amount A Distilled WaterDistilled Water Aqua QS A Glycerin Glycerin USP Humectant 2.50 B LipocolS Stearic Acid Emulsifier 3.00 B Lipocol C Cetyl Alcohol Emulsifier 3.50B Lipowax G Stearyl Alcohol Emulsifier 2.00 B Lipo GMS-450 GlycerylSterate Emulsifier 2.50 B Dow Corning 200 Dimethicone Film Former 1.00Fluid B Aqua Pro ™ II Wheat Germ Oil Anti-Oxidant 0.50 WGO CSkin-Flow-C ™ Modified Wheat Silky Feel/ 6.50 Starch Thickener D JojobaProtein Hydrolyzed Moisturizer/ 1.00 Jojoba Protein Anti-Wrinkle FJojoba Amino Acid Jojoba Amino Moisturizer/ 2.00 Acid Anti-Wrinkle HPreservative QS Antibacterial QS

Distilled water was metered into a primary tank and the glycerine wasadded with heating to 75° C. The Phase B ingredients were added in orderto a secondary tank and heated to 75° C. The Phase B ingredients wereadded to the Phase A ingredients with good agitation. When thetemperature reached 50–55° C., the Skin-Flow-C product was shifted intothe batch, making sure there were no lumps or powder. The Phase Dingredients were added, and at 35° C., the preservative was added withpH adjustment to 3.5–4.5.

Anti-Wrinkle Cream

The following ingredients were used to prepare the anti-wrinkle cream.

TABLE 15 Phase Trade Name INCI Name Function Amount A Distilled WaterDistilled Water Aqua QS A Glycerin Glycerin USP Humectant 1.0 A MilkProtein Completech Skin Feel 0.50 MBAC-DS A Carbomer 940 (2% CarbomerThickener 0.50 solution) B Stepan DGS SE Triple Press Stearic Emulsifier3.00 Acid B Lipocol C Cetyl Alcohol Emulsifier 2.00 B Lipo GMS-450Glyceryl Stearate Emulsifier 1.75 B Promulgin D Cetearyl AlcoholEmulsifier 1.00 Ceteareth-20 B Coco Butter Coco Butter Emollient 0.50 BLipo IPP Isopropyl Myristate Emollient 1.50 B Lipo IPM IsopropylPalmitate Emollient 1.50 B Crystisik NF 90 Mineral Oil Emollient 0.50 CSkin-Flow-C ™ Wheat Starch Silky Feel 3.00 Modified F Jojoba ProteinHydrolyzed Jojoba Anti-Wrinkle 0.50 Protein F Jojoba Amino Acid JojobaAnti-Wrinkle 2.00 Amino Acid H Preservative QS Antibacterial QS

The distilled water was added to a primary tank followed by theingredients of Phase A, with heating to 75° C. The Phase B ingredientswere added in order to a secondary tank and heated to 75° C. Phase B wasadded to Phase A at 75° C. with good agitation. At 50–55° C., theSkin-Flow-C product was added, making sure there were no lumps or powderremaining. When the temperature reached 35° C., the jojoba amino acidand hydrolyzed jojoba protein were added, together with thepreservative.

Hair Styling Gel

The following ingredients were used to prepare the hair styling gel.

TABLE 16 Phase Trade Name INCI Name Function Amount A Deionized WaterDeionized Water Aqua QS A Luviskol K30 PVPethanolamine Fixative 1.80 ATEA (25%) Triethanolamine pH Adjuster QS A Carbomer-940 CarbopolThickener 1.00 A Glucame-E20 Methyl Gluceth-20 Film Former 0.50 AVersene NA2 Disodium EDTA Chelation 0.50 B Tween-20 Polysorbate-20Cleansing 1.50 B Uvasorb S5 Benzophenone-4 UV Protection 0.04 B JojobaProtein Hydrolyzed Jojoba Reparative 3.00 Protein C Preservative QSAntibacterial QS C Fragrance QS Fragrance QS

The Carbomer was added in 25% water followed by mixing in of Phase Aingredients in order. Next, the Phase B ingredients were added with goodagitation, followed by addition of preservative and fragrance. The pH ofthe product was 5.5.

Face Mask

The following ingredients were used to prepare the face mask.

TABLE 17 Phase Trade Name INCI Name Function Amount A Deionized WaterDistilled Water Aqua Adjust A Propylene Glycol Propylene GlycolHumectant 1.50 B Lipocol GMS-450 Glyceryl Sterate Emulsifier 2.00 BLipowax G Stearyl Alcohol Emulsifier 2.50 B Lipocol C Cetyl AlcoholEmulsifier 2.00 C Skin-Flow-C ™ Wheat Starch Skin Feel 2.00 Modified DKaoline Kaoline Colloidal Firming 10.00 NF D Bentonite Bentonite 670Firming 8.00 E Aqua Pro II ™ CO Colloidal Oat Anti-Wrinkle 5.00 E JojobaProtein Hydrolyzed Jojoba Anti-Wrinkle 1.00 Protein E Jojoba Amino AcidJojoba Anti-Wrinkle 2.00 Amino Acid F Preservative QS Antibacterial QS

The Phase A and Phase B ingredients were separately heated to 75° C.,and Phase B was added to Phase A with mixing. When the mixture reached65° C., the Phase C ingredient was added with good mixing. Thereafter,the Phase D ingredients were added and the mixture was cooled to 35° C.,whereupon the Phase E ingredients were added along with thepreservative.

1. A method of hydrolyzing jojoba protein extracted from defatted jojobameal comprising the steps of: forming an aqueous dispersion of saiddefatted jojoba meal followed by filtering said aqueous dispersionthereby producing a permeate comprising unhydrolyzed jojoba proteinfollowed by hydrolyzing said unhydrolyzed jojoba protein by addingprotease enzymes to said permeate and agitating said permeate to form anagitated dispersion followed by deactivating the protease enzymes insaid dispersion said dispersion, following said enzyme deactivationstep, comprising from about 5–15% by weight simmondsin on a dry basis.2. The method of claim 1 farther comprising the step of adjusting the pHof the permeate prior to the addition of protease enzymes thereto. 3.The method of claim 1 including the step of passing said dispersionafter said enzyme deactivation step through a filtration system togenerate respective hydrolyzed jojoba amino acid permeate and hydrolyzedjojoba protein retentate fractions having different molecular weightprofiles, with the retentate fraction having a higher molecular weightprofile than said permeate fraction.
 4. The method of claim 3 includingthe step of drying said hydrolyzed jojoba protein retentate into ahydrolyzed jojoba protein powder.
 5. The method of claim 4, said dryingstep comprising spray drying said hydrolyzed jojoba protein retentate.6. The method of claim 4, wherein said hydrolyzed jojoba protein powdercomprises from about 18–35% by weight protein.
 7. The method of claim 6,wherein said hydrolyzed jojoba protein having a molecular weight rangeof from about 1,000–5,000.
 8. The method of claim 3, including the stepof drying said hydrolyzed jojoba amino acid permeate into a hydrolyzedjojoba amino acid powder.
 9. The method of claim 8, said drying stepcomprising spray drying said hydrolyzed jojoba amino acid permeate. 10.The method of claim 3, wherein said hydrolyzed jojoba amino acid powdercomprises from about 3–15% by weight amino acid.
 11. The method of claim10, wherein said hydrolyzed jojoba amino acid having an averagemolecular weight from about 75–1,000.
 12. The method of claim 3, whereinsaid hydrolyzed jojoba amino acid powder comprises from about 1–3% byweight simmondsin.
 13. The method of claim 1 including the step ofheating said aqueous dispersion to a temperature between about 60–90° C.